Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Salad: a love story







When I first visited New York with my mum in high school, I feel in love with two things: Crate&Barrel and the NYC deli salad bar. What can I say, I'm a sucker for overpriced sliced melon.

The truth is, though, that since living here, I never buy lunch at those delis. My youthful enthuasiam didn't stand the test of time (and I've recently learned from Ben Ryder Howe's forthcoming -- and utterly brilliant -- memoir, My Korean Deli (look for it in March, 2011) that steam tables are a breeding ground for bacteria).

Instead, for the first four and a half years, I very often bought my lunch from the "chopped" salad shops that cover the city. This was my second love affair with salad in the city. My go-to ingredients were chickpeas (always), cheese (always, either blue cheese crumbles or mozzarella), black olives (always), tomatoes (sometimes), avocado (sometimes), a hardboiled egg (sometimes), edamame (sometimes), and carrots (sometimes) all splashed with red wine vinegar and olive oil, salt and pepper.

And then one day, it was over. Just like that. Actually, it was two days in a row. I just couldn't swallow the salad one more time.
But a girl's got to eat. Bringing my lunch to work became a whole new challenge. It's hard to keep it yummy, affordable and portable.

I may have hit the jackpot, though, with this winning comibination: a warm salad with potatoes, mushrooms and goat cheese. It all started with an impromptu trip the farmer's market near the Natural History Museum. Inspired, I bought a nice head of lettuce and fresh chevre from Ardith Mae in Pennsylvania (ardithmae.com). I picked up some mushrooms and at home I already had some waxy new potatoes and a red onion. I quartered and sauteed the mushrooms in olive oil and butter. I boiled then sliced the potatoes. I dressed both the mushrooms and the potatoes along with some finely chopped red onion in a dijon-y vinaigrette. In a separate bag, I brought the lettuce to work washed, ripped and ready to go. I zapped the vinaigrette mixture for a minute and thirty seconds. I slowly incorporated in the lettuce so as to not splash my outfit. I enjoyed, and I recommend.













Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Daring-do, intrigue and cheese... this book has it all!

Looking for a exciting summer read that combines WWII bravery, international intrique and cheese? Look no further than OPERATION MINCEMEAT by Ben Macintyre.

Macintrye's riverting read chronicles the legendary Operation Mincemeat, in which a sad sack suicide was dressed up as a naval officer and floated out the Spanish coast with his pockets and attache case packed with false "top secret" war plans. The goal: to mislead the Germans, allowing the Allies to invade Sicily and win the war. Brilliant!

The hero of this tale is spy master Ewen Montagu, "a shrewd criminal lawyer and workaholic with a prematurely receding hairline and a penchant for stinky cheese." At University, along with his brother, Ivor (a Soviet spy, no less), they founded the Cheese Eaters League:

Ivor and Ewen shared a passion for cheese and set up a dining club to import and taste the most exotic specimens from around the world: camel's milk cheese, Middle Eastern goat cheese, cheese made from the milk of the long-horned Afghan sheep. "Our greatest ambition was to get whale's milk cheese," Ewen wrote, and to this end he contacted a whaling company to arrange that "if a mother whale was killed the milk should be 'cheesed' and sent to us."

Disgusting but also a little bit fascinating.

Here's the New York Times review. If your curiousity is piqued, rush out to buy this great book (and others!) at Barnes&Noble, Borders or, better yet, your local independent bookshop.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/16/books/review/Conant-t.html?pagewanted=all

Monday, June 14, 2010

Wild strawberries




Wild strawberries admittedly have nothing to do with cheese but they're just so darn exquisite. We picked two baskets* (with a little equine interference) and it was definitely worth the sore thighs the next morning.

LC outdid herself with a lemon-raspberry-wild strawberry tart adapted from sassyradish.com.

Life is good!!!


* a note on scale: the two bigger strawberries were grown by a farmer down the road. So, while commercially grown, they aren't those enormous, tasteless monsters (or SSOs -- strawberry shaped objects, as Rebecca Stead writes in her Newbury award winning YA novel, When You Reach Me) held out as strawberries in every grocery store. No siree, the strawberries from Fred's Fruit Market on Hwy 35/115 were sweet, juicy and plump -- but even they can't compare to wild strawberries picked in a horse field.



Artisanal Cheese in Ontario



This past weekend was spent celebrating my mother's retirement with wonderful cheeses from the Prince Edward Country-based Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Co. www.fifthtown.ca

Pictured here: Nettles Gone Wild (surface ripened soft goat cheese; semi firm) and a watermelon, mint and feta salad made with Bedda Fedda (a brine soaked Greek-style feta; sheep's milk).


Both were absolutely delicious and I can't wait to go home soon to try the Lighthall Tomme (goat; aged 2-3 months) and award-winning Cape Vessey (washed rind goat; aged 3-6 months). Will there be any left??

Sag Harbor, NY





















A few weekends ago in Sag Harbor, the stereotypical Hamptons scene didn't even register on my radar. Instead, we tasted a wonderful tomme and farmhouse cheddar from Mecox Bay Dairy and planted a herb garden and two tomato plants (one is a yellow and green zebra tomato and the other is a pear shaped, cherry tomato-sized). You could even buy a dozen assorted eggs at the Sag Harbor farmers' market. Beautiful, aren't they?


Wooed with cheese



An impressive showing with this decadent cheese plate and an endive & blue cheese salad.

Friday, May 7, 2010

Lunch in Toronto, Cheese from Quebec


At lunch with an old friend last Friday in Toronto at Mercatto, I ordered the $15 antipasti misti. This is exactly the way I like to eat: a choice of 2 verdure, 2 fromaggi and 2 salumi.
I choose artichokes and winter squash for my 2 vegetables, cacciatorini (a hunter style salami) and an Abruzzese salami (rustic pork) for my 2 salumi and, being in Canada, I picked 2 cheeses from Quebec: Baluchon (cow's milk) and Bleu Benedictin (cow's milk).

Here's an idea


Here's a little snapshot of the impromptu cheeseplate I shared with my dad last week in Toronto. We found a Brie de Meaux and another triple cream in the fridge, along with some prosciutto and grapes. We both had martinis -- mine was vodka with a lot of olive juice and as many olives as my heart desired. Daddy's was more classic -- gin with vermouth, of course.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Marea


Delicious dinner last night at Marea. Two kinds of oysters (both east coast) and risotto frutti di mare followed by the "large" cheese plate.


As Adam Platt writes in New York Magazine, the portions really are tiny at Marea. My risotto was truly perfect but there just wasn't enough of it. Same for the cheese portions, as this picture will attest. Also, let it be known once and for all: I think manchego is the most overrated cheese. There, I said it.

I will say, though, that the barman did not hold back on the olive juice in my dirty martini. It was very briny and for that I say, thank you!





Monday, April 19, 2010

A joke about cheese


Thanks, Matt Spratt, for our first joke about cheese! Because really, Cheese & Reality could also be called Cheese & Happiness, Joy and Laughter.


Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Easter


Easter blessings: the most glorious weather, old and new friends and a perfect old fashioned dinner of ham, JC's scalloped potatoes*, haricots verts almondine, and mimosa salad. What could be springier than asparagus and eggs?!


Mimosa salad

Asparagus (cooked for exactly 3 minutes, not a second more; and this rule applies to skinny and chubby asparagus alike)

Dijon vinaigrette

Diced and/or sliced hard boiled eggs

Parmigiano Reggiano shavings




* that's Julia Child, not Jesus Christ

I [heart] rock 'n roll


Saturday night: cheese, wine and a rock concert. Oh yeah.


Pre-show nibbles at Bar Jamon. We had a beet salad with slice of valdeon (goat cheese) and a plate of sliced chorizo. The real standout was the spicy octopus with chickpeas.


The cheese selection was pretty good too. We had Leondra (sprinkled with granola, which frankly didn't add much), Garrotxa (with a very nice cherry tomato jam) and Malvorosa (but I can't remember the accompaniment).


Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Old friends


Last night at Bar Centrale, the cheese : wine ratio was definitely in favour of the wine. No matter, we still managed to squeeze in a few morsels of Comte, Garrotxa, Pierre Robert and my old friend, Blue d'Auvergne.


Ah, Blue d'Auvergne. You old standby. Discovered in the mid-1850s by cheesemaker Antoine Roussel, who realized that rye bread mold created the blue veining, which prickled the cow's milk cheese curd and improved aeration. Today, Blue d'Auvergne is aged for approximately four weeks in cool, wet cellars, a relatively short period for blue cheeses.


Blue d'Auvergne is a regular feature on my cheeseplates, especially when I'm in Toronto. We've been together a long time, B d'A and I. Which is funny and touching, considering that my friend Kate made her own Blue d'Auvergne discovery last night. I've only known Kate for 4 years but, like B d'A, I feel like I've known her forever.



Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Top of the morning to you







One of my all time favourite cheeses is the great Irish blue cheese, Cashel Blue, and it's hard to imagine celebrating St. Patrick's Day without a big slice. But today, instead, I'm dedicating my coloric quota to the office Irish Soda Bread festival and legendary Kerry Gold Irish Butter.








Monday, March 15, 2010

Sunday night special




After gorging on two hard cheeses and cherry jam gently sprinkled with rare French glass shards, GG wowed us with coq au vin and rosemary potatoes. Jamie Oliver may have contributed the recipe, but GG took it to a whole new level.




We concluded the evening with two of life's great treats: Bananagrams and Mini Eggs from England.








Desperately Seeking Vlaskaas


Fifty percent of this cheese duo is in love with Vlaskaas, which is a Dutch hard cheese known for its sweet and creamy taste. The other fifty percent is on high alert for when it's available at Fairway, having learned the hard way yesterday that it's a rare commodity.

Historically, Vlaskaas was made only during the Dutch flax harvest. Only in 2004 did cheesemakers discover the exact way to recreate the recipe for Vlaskaas, and Vlaskaas was once again discovered.

In lieu of Vlaskaas we subsituted Uniekass Gouda (cow's milk; aged 18 months) and Comte (cow's milk; hard yet flexible with a strong but sweet taste). Two-thirds preferred the Comte but the Vlaskaas lover was pleasantly surprised with the substituting gouda.

To top things off, our cheese plate included Anne Rozes' famed confiture de cerises noires (black cherry jam), and 100% of cheese lovers rejoiced.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Stinky Cheese Festival / NYC

Third Annual Stinky Cheese Festival
3/3/2010 - Culinary Tour de France
Join us for our Third Annual Stinky Cheese Festival. This year our chefs will be creating Stinky Cheese appetizers, entrees and desserts in addition to our regular menu from March 3, 2010 to March 12th, 2010.

Particpating Restaurants Include*:

Cafe D'Alsace: www.cafedalsace.com

1695 2nd Avenue (at 88th Street); 212.722.5133

French Roast Uptown: www.frenchroastny.com/

2340 Broadway (at 85th Street); 212.799.1533;

French Roast Downtown: www.frenchroastny.com

78 West 11th Street (at 6th Avenue); 212.533.2233

Le Monde: www.lemondenyc.com/

2885 Broadway (btw 112th & 113th Street); 212.531.3939

L'Express: www.lexpressnyc.com/

249 Park Avenue (at 20th Street); 212. 254.5858

Maison: www.maisonnyc.com/

1700 Broadway ( at 53rd Street); 212.757.2233

Marseille: www.marseillenyc.com/

630 9th Avenue (at 44th Street); 212.333.2323

Nice Matin: www.nicematinnyc.com/

201 West 79th Street (at Amsterdam); 212.873.6423

Pigalle: www.pigallenyc.com/

790 8th Avenue (at 48th Street); 212.489.2233

*Individual restaurant sites host Stinky Cheese Menus unique to the region of France the restaurant celebrates.

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Winter Blahs: 3-Step Cure

Here are three easy steps to cure the winter blahs:

1. Good company
2. Vitamin-C Burst. Mark Bittman's Winter Citrus Salad is both gorgeous and the homoepathic equivalent of the flu shot. Blood oranges (that most divine of winter fruits), pink grapefruits and navel oranges are dressed with a sherry vinaigrette (we substituted good old red wine vinegar) and a tarragon garnish. http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/20/dining/201mrex.html
3. Cheese (of course). Fairway can always be counted on for one of my all time favourite cheeses: Delice de Pommard. This ball-shaped triple creme goat cheese from Burgundy is rolled in mustard seed and is the perfect tangy/rich combination. We served it with our recent discovery of "Mary's Gone Crackers" biscuits. They're crisp, gluten-free and organic crackers made from brown rice, quinoa, flax and sesame seeds. Best of all, they have no added fat, which is a good thing when you consider how rich the cheese is.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Storing Cheese

Friends just back from a trip to Italy were inspired by how they saw cheeses kept in restaurants. As their New Year's resolution, they've resolved to store their cheese on the counter, not the fridge, covered with a tea towel. The advantage, of course, is that your cheese is always perfectly at room temperature. I'm not convinced, though, largely because I think restaurants probably only keep out that day's cheese.

In any case, this led me to do a little research on proper cheese storage. Here's a great link from someone who should know (formerly of Murray's Cheese, currently working for Martha Stewart):

http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/cheese/how-to-store-cheese-what-to-do-when-you-get-it-home-the-cheesemonger-100285